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If you find yourself in the Balkan peninsula and would like to see the lesser known sights, look no further than Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina. It’s close location to Croatia makes it easily reachable by bus from Split and the remnants of its very recent war are very much present within the city itself. Indeed it is considered the most heavily damaged city during the Bosnian War (1992-1995), which was catalysted by the breakup of the Yugoslavia republic. Arriving here by bus, and walking through the town, you can see windowless buildings riddled with bullet holes and ready to crumble, ruins from the siege of mostar itself and graffiti supporting the local football clubs.

What is perhaps most interesting about the football clubs here is that the sport transcends national politics and wartime history. The Mostar derby takes place between HSK Zrinjski (supported by the Croats on the west side of the Neretva river) and FK Velez (supported by the Bosniaks on the east). Religion splits the city across the river line. Schools have different curriculum and language of instruction, just across the river.

The remnants of the most recent war are very much alive in this city. Make no mistake, Mostar is not to be missed or dismissed because of the most recent conflict, but should be understood and respected as a symbol for the resilience of the city to exist. You can find a Google map of the places I will discuss at the end of this post. Also, if you have more time in this part of the world, check out nearby Dubrovnik, Croatia (blog post here).

Walking through the city center, you will most likely gravitate towards the Stari Most bridge. Although destroyed during the war in 1993, it was rebuilt as it previously was in its 16th century Ottoman style architecture. At the end of July every year, the bridge is the centerpiece of a diving competition and is now a perennial stop of the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series.

Diving from this 24 meter tall bridge into the cold waters of the river is usually reserved for professionals, however tourists have been konwn to jump as well (hard pass for me). There restaurants, cafes, and shops on both sides of the bridge, but I recommend grabbing a drink and heading down to the bank by the river to admire the bridge down by the water. Great photo spots to capture the bridge is well summarized here.

The sniper tower of Mostar is an old run down derelict building on the west side of the river. Now it is blanketed in graffiti, broken glass, and exposed building materials. Finding it is rather easy, but you will have to circle the building once to find the best way inside (usually involves climbing over a wall). Once inside, make your way to the top for sunrise to get a great birds eye view of Mostar.  It’s the perfect setting and view for a nice summer night and a great way to reflect on the city history.

For an even higher view, hike towards the Millenium Cross on Hum Hill, which is viewable from any part of the city. A taxi here costs just a few euros but you can walk up to it as well. Bring lots of water, wear sunscreen, and stick to the main paths and roads as there is no shelter from the sun in the summer and there is still a risk of active mines in the area. 

From here, you can hire a car or take a day tour to visit some of the nice areas around Mostar. Your first stop should most obviously be the abandoned airplane hangers just a few miles away. Used during the war conflict, they unfortunately no longer house any airplanes, but are chilling and fascinating to explore. 

Down the highway is the village of Blagaj on the Buna river. The Blagaj Tekke is a Dervish monastery dating back to 1520. It is a perfect example of how buildings can be perfectly incorported into the natural landscape so seemlessly with some of the site embedded within nearby cliffs. For a small fee, you can enter into the monastery and read more about its rich history. 

A bit further down the way, you will pass by the small but hard to miss village of Pocitelj. The hillside village is enchanting, and boasts its own citadel and mosque (Hajji Alija), with cobblestoned roads and footpaths with fantastic views along the Neretva river.

The hike up to the Kula, or bell tower, takes some energy but the view is worth it. 

The last stop to make is to see the Kravica waterfalls, popular for swimming and picnics. For photos, it’s best to go early in the morning before many people have arrived.

It’s most noted for its bright green hue in early spring time and is a great place to unwind after a long road trip or if you need a rest from the hustle of backpacking. 

As far as food goes, with no dietary restrictions, grab some Cevapi, a type of kebab made of mincemeat, usually served in a bun. It’s simple but very delicious.

All in all, you will be glad you’ve seen this city and the surrounding area and will leave with a greater understanding of a tragic conflict that occurred during our lifetimes and understand the resilient spirits of the people here.

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