A Journey through the Amalfi Coast: Positano

Positano, Amalfi Coast, Italy (ISO 100, 4.5 mm, f/2.8, 1/50 s)

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**This post is the 7th of a 8-post series discussing what to see in this town of the Amalfi Coast (You can check out the other parts in the list below, separated by each specific town. Everything is also summarized in another post here.**

The Amalfi Coast is one of the premier destinations in not just Italy, but the whole of Europe. Situated on the South side of the Sorrentine Peninsula, it is a collection of village towns that bear fine churches, plentiful beaches, and stunning coastlines. The entire area is named after the town of Amalfi which is the main historical and political center, and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Each town has a different vibe so it worth checking out multiple ones on your visit. I personally was able to see Ravello, Minori, Maiori, Amalfi, Atrani, Fiordo di Furore (the beach), and Positano, but I hope to come back someday to also check out Praiano and Conca dei Marini.

In this blog post, I will cover the town of Positano. The town of Positano dates back to the 1st Century BC. Known for its market port in the 15th to 17th centuries, it was a poor fishing village in the mid 1900s, then roared in popularity thereafter. Notable sites to see are the Church of Santa Maria Assunta and the Marina Grande beach. A Google Map of the places I will talk about can be seen at the end of this article.

Check out my drone video of Positano on the Amalfi Coast below!

Positano, Amalfi Coast, Italy (ISO 100, 4.5 mm, f/2.8, 1/50 s)

How to get to Positano

In order to get to Positano, you will have to get yourself to Italy and then to the Amalfi Coast first. The best airport to fly into is Naples Airport (NAP), followed by taking a train to the city of Salerno. If you want a cheaper option, you can go by bus.

Then from Salerno, you can:

  1. Take a ferry from Salerno to Positano (the ferry also stops at Vietri Sul Mare, Cetara, Amalfi, Minori, and Maiori).

  2. Take SITA bus number 5120 from Salerno bus station to Amalfi.

  3. Take a taxi direct to Positano.

Option #2 is the cheapest option and the one we ended up doing. We rarely take taxis if public transport is available. You can get bus tickets at any Tabacchi in Italy, but usually only with cash.


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Here are some places worth seeing while you’re in Positano:

Marina Grande Beach

This is quite an obvious place to go. With how hot Italy has been the past few years, I imagine you would want to go to this beach many times a day. The beach is 300 meters long and hosts a variety of restaurants along its perimeter. Here you have private beach establishments and a public beach as well. This is also from where different Amalfi coast excursions are known to depart from.

Positano Beach, Amalfi Coast, Italy (ISO 100, 4.5 mm, f/2.8, 1/50 s)

Church of Santa Maria Assunta (Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta)

This gorgeous church dates back centuries and is most known for its 13th century Byzantine Black Madonna above its altar. And as is common with churches on the Amalfi Coast, the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta also features its own 18th century belltower. The church itself was abandoned at some point during the 15th century due to increasing risks of pirate attacks.

A restoration of the space was started in 1777 and has made the church what it is today. The yellow and green tiles on the dome roof are common among the churches in this part of the world as well. What is best about this church is the space it provides just outside, which is a platform with excellent sweeping views of Positano from an elevated point.

Positano, Amalfi Coast, Italy (ISO 100, 4.5 mm, f/2.8, 1/50 s)

Fornillo Beach

This is another beach that requires a small walk to reach from Positano harbor. Some people like this spot better since it offers some respite from the sights and sounds of Positano beach. But best to get here earlier in the day since it may also fill up with like minded people.

Arienzo Beach

This beach is referred to as the 300 steps beach, due to how many stairs it takes to reach. Starting from a cliffside, you follow the steps down to reach the sea. One the way down, you can often see inside some of the impressive and luxurious villas owned by the wealthy. What’s best about this beach is that it faces the southwest, which ensures more sunlight than Positano beach in any given day. This beach also has private and public areas.

Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta, Positano, Italy (ISO 100, 4.5 mm, f/2.8, 1/80 s)

Viale Pastitea

When you get off the bus at the Positano - Sponda bus stop, you will eventually reach Viale Pastitea as you traverse down the roadway into the city. This shop is known for its high quality shops, often flanked by local street artists and vendors selling their wares.

Roman Archeological Museum of Positano (Museo Archeologico Romano)

The remarkable part about this museum is that it was discovered during the restoration process for the Church of Santa Maria Assunta. Years of excavations have uncovered a 1st century AD villa from the Roman period, measuring 30 square meters and situated 11 meters under the church. You can enter the museum from underneath the church’s belltower.

What is quite interesting about this area is that even the mountains around Positano were not enough to prevent ash from Mt. Vesuvius from descending upon the city, even though the volcano sits 20 kilometers away. The space that has been restored is replete with vivid colored frescos and floors of mosaic.

Positano, Amalfi Coast, Italy (ISO 100, 4.5 mm, f/2.8, 1/80 s)

La Zagara

While walking through the Viale Pastitea, we stumbled upon this really awesome cafe called La Zagara. This was an abandoned ruin that was converted into its present day establishment by its founder Giacominio. Here we had two iced coffees but found they also offer gelato and baked pastries. We liked the vibe overall and the staff was incredibly friendly. It’s a popular place so best to go during off peak times.

Sponda Bus stop viewpoint

When coming from Amalfi, the bus you take will inevitably drop you off at the Sponda bus stop. Here you can walk down into the center of Positano. Here is also one of the best viewpoints of the whole city. Since it is elevated, you can panoramic views of the town, including the beach and the cliffs. It is one of the best ways to welcome keen tourists!

Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta, Positano, Italy (ISO 100, 4.5 mm, f/2.8, 1/80 s)

PROTIP

We came to Positano in Summer 2023, in the middle of a crazy heat wave and also a super busy tourist season. We expected such crowds and you should to if you plan to come during the warmer months. Therefore, all the buses we took managed to be quite full as well with only standing room available. Sometimes the buses would have to skip stops on the way to the final destination simply because the bus had no more standing room space.

We knew that taking a bus back to Amalfi from Positano would be packed from the very start. Luckily, Google Maps pointed us to the Positano - Liparlati bus stop, which is one stop BEFORE the main Positano - Sponda bus stop.

The bus that came there was empty, meaning us and a few other smart travelers could get on and grab any seat they wanted. Then when the next bus stop was reached, you already had a cozy seat while the nearly 100 people outside hectically tried to advance onto the bus.

Just be sure that you have already purchased your bus ticket from a Tabacchi in town since the buses usually don’t sell tickets and there are many bus monitors that check. There is a tabacchi located just near the Sponda bus stop so it is smart to get them once you arrive in Positano, to be used on your way back while taking the Liparlati bus stop.

If you want to read more about visiting the town of Amalfi itself, be sure to check out my blog post about it. You can also check out posts for all the towns we visited in the Amalfi coast during our trip.

Related Posts

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A Guide to the Towns of the Amalfi Coast in Italy

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A Journey through the Amalfi Coast: Fiordo di Furore