New Zealand Road Trip: The South Island
That Wanaka Tree, New Zealand (ISO 100, 28 mm, f/22, 3.2 s)
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Whether you decide to take the ferry from Wellington to the South Island, or fly from Auckland, Christchurch is an excellent starting point for a proper South island road trip around New Zealand (click here for a North Island Road Trip Itinerary). The city has experienced resurgence in creativity and urbanization after its most recent earthquakes in 2010-2012. Take a few days here to see why this city is one of the best in New Zealand.
There are many different types of cars you can rent for the road trip (regular car, camper van, self-contained unit, etc). I decided to go with a Spaceship rental, which is not a self-contained vehicle, but had everything from a bed, fridge, and all the supplies I needed for cooking. Other companies include Jucy, Britz, The Pod, Travelers Autobarn etc. You can find a map for the entire road trip at the end of this post.
When you decide to start off from Christchurch and make your way south, you’ll find Lake Tekapo about three hours down the road. One of the best parts of this is the journey itself. If you find yourself here in the spring/summer, you will pass endless fields of lupins along the way. There are plenty of places to stop off to see them in large concentrations, just be sure to do it safely. Upon arriving to Lake Tekapo, go for a hike on the Mt. John summit circuit track. This is a rather easy hike that takes you around the perimeter of the lake (about 3 hours). At the top is the Dark Sky Project Observatory that offers tours to visitors for stargazing and learning more about astronomy.
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Next, venture about an hour further south to the Mount Cook/Aoraki National Park and you will end up at the Hooker Valley Track. This hike also takes about 3 hours (1.5 hours to and from Hooker Lake) and the elevation change is only about 20 meters, making it very enjoyable and easy for all fitness levels. Here you will pass streams, valleys, and end up with the most spectacular view of Hooker Lake and Mount Cook towering over you. Sometimes you will see little icebergs floating in the sulfur enriched lake, making for a dramatic scene. You can do Lake Tekapo and Hooker Valley in one day, but if you have the time, it’s best to separate it over 2-3 days.
To get your dose of adrenaline and adventure sports, Queenstown is world renowned for such activities. Here you can go bungee jump, rafting, skydiving, paragliding, river surfing, jetboating, dirt biking, rock climbing, etc. If extreme sports aren’t your thing and are looking for something more relaxing, there are plenty of hiking trails around for panoramic views of the area. This link here summarizes extremely well some of the hikes that can be done in the Queenstown area. These are short day hikes of varying difficulty that cover much of the Queenstown landscape.
For a nice aerial view of the city itself, go to the Skyline Gondola. Here you can enjoy a drink at the bar, or food from their café, and sit atop of the city, taking it all in. Be sure to check their times for the last cable car, which may change depending on the weather. If you wanted a camp site a little off the beaten path, head over to Moke Lake. It’s a great camping area with a fantastic view and a plethora of horses galloping nearby. (PROTIP: bring eucalyptus spray to combat the sand flies at your campsite. They are in ABUNDANCE during the warmer months).
The small town of Te Anau is worth a visit, at least if you plan to go to Milford Sound the following day (the only way to get to Milford Sound is through Te Anau, so best to stay for a night and then continue to Milford early the next morning).
Te Anau Jetty, New Zealand (ISO 100, 35 mm, f/11, 13 s)
Probably the most tranquil place in the city is the jetty at the Marakura Yacht Club. This is a great place to relax and watch the sunset while grabbing some fantastic photos of the jetty. If you live in an area with lots of light pollution, Te Anau (and this spot in particular) is amazing if you want to try your hand at astrophotography. I got up around 2 in the morning and headed back to the jetty to snag a photo of the Milky Way. The sky is so clear, you can see it with the naked eye.
Marakuna Yacht Club, Te Anau, New Zealand (ISO 6400, 16 mm, f/2.8, 42 s)
Milford Sound is essentially where the road ends in the south island (maybe 2-ish hours from Ta Anau). Here you can take a boat tour of the area (there are many operators around). You can also go kayaking with a guide in the sound itself and check out the aquarium they have which is very educational and great to learn about the history of the area. I decided to go with Southern Discoveries and they did not disappoint. This was booked in advance but I presume you can also book it the day of.
On your way back up north, you will pass by Te Anau and Queenstown again, which is perfect in case you wanted to do something there on the way down and didn’t get a chance to. Otherwise you can keep venturing towards the city of Wanaka. There are some fantastic hikes in this area but probably the most famous landmark is of the lone tree in the lake itself. Locals do not want people to actually go up to the tree for obvious reasons, but about the time I took this photo, there were about 20 other photographers around me trying to catch the same shot. It’s colloquially named ‘that Wanaka tree’.
Before you leave Wanaka for your next destination, make sure you grab some fuel for the car and some fuel for yourself. I cannot recommend Urban Grind enough. Get your caffeine fix here and with their outdoor seating, you can reflect on your time in Wanaka and people watch until you're ready to go.
That Wanaka Tree, New Zealand (ISO 100, 35 mm, f/22, 8 s)
On the way towards the west coast of the southern island after Wanaka, there are many places to stop along, mostly containing short hiking routes and waterfalls. Be sure to keep an eye out for signs, specially ones for Blue Pools and Thunder Creek Falls in Mount Aspiring National Park, right outside of Haast. Once you hit the west coast, spend some time at Bruce Bay. Even when cloudy, this beach was perfect for a nice walk with the crashing waves and driftwood and rocks littering the sand.
I’d say given the state of the world at least in terms of climate, anytime you can see a glacier, do it, you never know how much longer it’ll be around. Luckily there are hundreds in New Zealand, but the most famous ones are the Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers. With the latter, you can book a hike, ice climb, or helicopter ride to the glacier itself with an experienced guide. It’s really quite sad when you realize how much the glacier has receeded in recent years. Nonetheless, after a few hours there, you also have an unlimited amount of time in the hot springs in the town of Franz Josef as well (usually included in your glacier tour ticket). It’s the best way to relax after the exhausting hike.
After a long day of driving you may want to settle down in Hokitika, a small township on the west coast. When you reach the town, there is an area along the coast where the buildings end and you can spot a beach nearby. I wound up camping here for the night, however you may want to check on an official map if it’s allowed (here is a resource with more on ‘Freedom camping’ in this area). Nonetheless, it’s a perfect spot to make dinner and watch the sunset.
If you haven’t seen the glowworms yet that NZ is known for, the Hotikita Glowworm Dell is just nearby and it’s absolutely free (a guide on other glowworm cave locations). It’s recommended that you go here later in the night to avoid the crowds and to turn off your flashlight upon entering, so as not to disturb other people from enjoying the spectacle.
The last stop before heading back to Christchurch took me to Kaikoura. The Kaikoura Peninsula walkway is beautiful and a must see. It’s not too long of a hike and takes you around the area to experience the animals and the flora and fauna. A nice place to stay for the night is just a few miles south in a place called Paia Point.
Camping here was cheap and you must make sure you go a few miles even further down the road to pay the fee (Email: goosebay@ihug.co.nz or call +64 3 319 5348 to reserve). There were spots for a lot of vehicles here but I had the entire rocky beach to myself for the night and next day. Spent your morning making breakfast and watching the animals in the area.
After Kaikoura, you have the option to head back up north to catch the ferry back to the North Island and Wellington, or go south to Christchurch to complete the loop.
There’s no right or wrong way to see New Zealand, there’s entirely so much to see that it’ll take you the better part of a year to adequately see it all. Nonetheless, even in two weeks with the right plan, you can see enough highlights of the country to make you feel quite satisfied with your trip (but you will always leave wanting and wishing you had the time to see more). You can find all the sites I have discussed on the page below.
Be sure to check out my post for a road trip through the North Island of New Zealand (starting in Auckland).
If you have managed to see both islands that make up this amazing nation, which do you prefer and why?
