Take a trip to Mariehamn and the Åland Islands
Kastelholm Castle, Åland Islands (ISO 100, 4.5 mm, f/2.8, 1/30 s)
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The Åland Islands is an autonomous region located between Finland and Sweden, owned by the former, and accounts for 0.5% of Finland’s land area. The capital of these islands is Mariehamn. The autonomy of Åland was bestowed upon it in 1920 by the League of Nations (present-day United Nations).
The capital of Mariehamn is referred to as “the town of the thousand lime trees”, due to these tall monoliths sprouting through the market square and beyond. Although most people tend to visit Mariehamn, it is well worth using public transport or renting a bike to explore the other islands that make up this region.
I spent a weekend in Åland in the springtime, which luckily for us, was perfectly sunny with comfortable temperatures. From our home in Uppsala, we were able to take the ferry to Åland from the Swedish mainland (more details below).
Also, if you’re in this part of the world, I highly suggest seeing other Nordic Capitals like:
How to get to the Åland Islands (and Mariehamn)
Since the Åland islands are an archipelago, your options for getting to them are quite limited.
If you decide to fly to Åland, you can book your flight to Mariehamn airport (Airport Code: MHQ), which is located just 3 kilometers away from the city center of Mariehamn. However, the only way to fly to Mariehamn would be from the cities of Stockholm in Sweden, and Turku and Helsinki in Finland.
For us, we were able to book nearly a door to door transfer with Eckerö Line, the company that operates the ferry between Grisslehamn (Sweden) and Åland. The company makes it super easy to book a ticket from nearly anywhere in Sweden to Mariehamn.
For example, for 230 SEK, or about $20, we were able to book:
Bus tickets from Uppsala, Sweden to Grisslehamn
Ferry tickets from Grisslehamn to Eckerö (Åland)
Bus tickets from Eckerö to Mariehamn
Bus tickets from Mariehamn to Eckerö
Ferry tickets from Eckerö to Grisslehamn (Sweden)
Bus tickets from Grisslehamn to Uppsala.
So as you can see, for this small amount, you get a return trip to Åland, all sorted by Eckerö Line.
If you are visiting Stockholm on your holiday and don’t want to go to Uppsala to catch the bus to Grisslehamn, you can also book your bus connection from Stockholm as well. Follow this link to see all the bus connections that Eckerö Line provides.
Lastly, you can decide to go to Åland for the day and return, or do what we did and stay over the weekend by booking a hotel in Mariehamn. We then booked a ferry which was most convenient for our return to the Swedish mainland.
If you like some of my photos that you have come across, just know that I have many prints showcasing a variety of landscapes, including the Nordics, available for purchase below! (Sold as Posters, Canvas, or in Metal-Frames and Wooden-Frames).
Mariehamn is a rather small town, so you can easily walk it in just a matter of minutes/hours, depending on your walking pace and how distracted you are by beautiful facades. Here are some places to check out when the bus drops you off in Mariehamn:
Mariehamn, Åland Islands (ISO 200, 67 mm, f/8, 1/640 s)
Bagarstugan
I am such a sucker for a great coffee and pastry break, or a fika if you come from Scandinavia. There are a number of cafes in Mariehamn but I can only attest to my experience at Bagarstugan, which translates to ‘the baker’s cottage’. Located in a central part of town there is seating inside and outside and the business serves everything from coffee and other beverages as well as salads and sweet pastries.
Mariehamn, Åland Islands (ISO 200, 55 mm, f/8, 1/640 s)
Badhuset Mariebad
If you decide to head to Mariehamn in the summer, you should definitely make some time for swimming and to enjoy the sunshine. This part of the world has been getting warmer year after year, so swimming has become an increasingly popular activity. Head on over to Badhuset Mariebad to enjoy swimming in their 25 meter long pool. You can also relax on their sundeck and swimming jetty replete with a beach and cafe. You can even book a spa treatment during your stay.
Sjökvarteret Maritime Quarter
At the Northeastern end of Mariehamn, along the western coastline, you will find the Sjökvarteret Maritime quarter. You will know you have arrived here when you see the red pyramid-shaped building perched next to the bay. This area is incredibly peaceful. You will also find shops selling crafts, ice cream and pizza, as well as located handicrafts like textiles, ceramics, and jewelry.
Esplanaden Boulevard
Making your way from the Western coast of the Mariehamn peninsula and walking east, you will inevitably start walking down the Esplanaden boulevard. It is lined with lime trees and takes you past many Mariehamn landmarks such as St. Göran’s Church and Leafy Södragatan.
Vista Point
Upon reaching the eastern coast of the Mariehamn peninsula, you will easily see a tall yellow tower to the north in an area called Vista Point. Head in this direction, which will also take you through a frisbee golf course, until you get to the tower. From here you can see sweeping views of the whole area.
Museum ship Pommern
In the summer time between May and September, the Pommern ship museum is open to visitors. Sitting on a dock in eastern Mariehamn, this ship and museum is hard to miss. The origins of the ship date back to the 1930s and you are given the chance to even explore different passages inside the ship.
Just nearby on land is the Åland Maritime Museum, which also features a monument to sailors lost to the sea over the centuries. Their names are show as reliefs in stone bricks.
Seaside Promenade
Walking along the water in this part of Mariehamn was our favorite part of the trip. Take a stroll from Gröna Udden and walk along Östernäsvägen road for 2 kilometers and then you will reach the Lervik Marina and Fiskehamnen harbor. There are plenty areas to sit and to take in the sunshine and island views all along this walk.
There is no climbing necessary for this walk, but you may have to traverse over some large boulders from time to time. You can loosely follow a trail through the forest or stay on the pathway along the coastline.
Vista Point, Åland Islands (ISO 200, 70 mm, f/8, 1/500 s)
Of course, one shouldn’t limit your time in Åland just to the capital of Mariehamn. It is definitely worth it to either rent a car, rent a bike, or take a bus to check out some other spots in this autonomous country. Some of these places include:
Grottstigen Trail
These are some of the best hiking trails in all of Åland, known for their amazing views. On your trek you will see caves and other rock formations, all while being able to take in sweeping seaside views. For those who enjoy bouldering, this is your playground. If you have kid, you can take the Trollstigen trail, which is shorter.
Kastelholm Castle (Kastelholms Slott)
For those who love castles like myself, you cannot miss Kastelholm Castle. Located 40 minutes north of Mariehamn by bus, this castle was built by Sweden in the Medieval times. It is just one of five surviving Finnish fortresses of that period. It was built in the 14th century and held prominence in the 15th and 16th centuries. It fell into ruin in 1745 but was refurbished and now is a popular spot for tourists to visit. The area around the castle is also quite peaceful and is worth exploring.
Nåtö Nature Preserve
The Nåtö nature preserve is located south of Mariehamn and features an incredibly diverse habitat. It is more of a meadow as opposed to a forest, which features an abundance of flowerbeds and rich birdlife. There are marked trails throughout and it is widely recommended to stick to them instead of heading off piste. Mushroom picking, a popular activity for nordic cultures, is not allowed in this area. This also goes for berry picking and any general disruption of the area as it is also forbidden. You can look but can’t touch!
Bomarsund Fortress
Before Finland’s independence in 1917, Åland belonged to Russia. In the 1830s, an outpost was being built by Russia at Bomarsund, which lies in the western portion of Åland. Unfortunately, the fortress was damaged while only being half built in 1854 during the Crimean War.
Present day, the ruins of the fortress are now designated as a monument. As with Kastelholmn castle, the area around the Bomarsund Fortress is also worth exploring. For instance, you can take a hike along Prästö island, among other places to explore.
Although this blog post is by no means comprehensive, I think it is a good representation of what you can expect and what you should check out while staying in the Åland islands.
I definitely hope to return again the near future and as I discover more amazing places, I will update this blog post accordingly. If you are already in this part of the world as well, make some time to check out mainland Finland and/or Sweden!
