A Weekend Trip to the Danish town of Aarhus
ARoS Aarhus Art Museum, Aarhus, Denmark (ISO 100, 4.5 mm, f/2.8, 1/50 s)
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I must say, I really enjoy visiting 2nd cities. What I mean by a 2nd city is the 2nd most populated city of a country, usually after the capital city (though there are exceptions). I visited Copenhagen many years ago and really enjoyed it but I hadn’t been to Denmark since.
It wasn’t now where I had the chance to visit Aarhus, that is, the 2nd most populated city in Denmark, follow by Odense (the 3rd largest). These smaller cities usually have more charm in my opinion and the people can be a little bit different (still pleasant of course, but different than those who live in the capital).
Aarhus is the largest city situated in Jutland county in Denmark, home to about 336,000 inhabitants (at the time of writing this article). It is a city ripe with student life, as can be seen by the plethora of cafes and bicycles ever present on these city streets. After all it is home to the largest university in Scandinavia (Aarhus University). Furthermore, it is one of the oldest cities in Denmark, dating back to the 8th century.
Check out my drone video of Aarhus, Denmark below!
My parents were due to meet me in Copenhagen from home so I decided to start my short Denmark tour just a few days earlier and make my way by train to the Danish capital. First, I took a flight from my home base in Stockholm to Aalborg, Denmark (just a little over an hour), then the train down to Aarhus (about 2 hours) where I spent two days (a solid amount of time, 3 days may be even better). Here is what I saw and what I recommend:
The Aarhus Art Museum (ARoS) is perhaps the most recognizable building in all of Aarhus, characterized by its cube shaped, outfitted with a circular rainbow walkway perched on top. Established in 1859, it is the oldest art museum in Denmark (not considering Copenhagen) and attracts nearly a million visitors annually. Much of the works are from the Danish Golden Age with plans to expand the museum with new underground spaces. The exhibit on top of the building is called ‘Your Rainbow Panorama’ is most popular and features an outdoor café right below. This was easily one of my favorite places in the city.
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Vadestedet is considered the center of the city with regards to where people love to be. It is a small sitting around situated on the canal that leads out into the seat, flanked by cafes, restaurants, bars, and nightclubs. It is a popular spot among students as well. The best time of day to experience this is early morning or right after dinner.
Vadestadet, Aarhus, Denmark (ISO 100, 24 mm, f/4, 1/1000 s)
Mølleparken is a fantastic green space, centrally located in Aarhus, next to the Aarhus river. The name means ‘Mill Park’, which pays homage to the old mill that once stood on the property. The mill was demolished in 1927 and now the square has become a haven for young students and professionals alive, hoping to catch as much of the sun as possible. My hostel was located right in front of the park so I was lucky enough to enjoy it throughout the entirely of my stay.
Mølleparken, Aarhus, Denmark (ISO 200, 4.5 mm, f/2.8, 1/25 s)
As far as religious buildings go, you can’t miss the Aarhus Cathedral (Århus Domkirke). You literally cannot miss it. It is the longest and tallest church in all of Denmark at 93 meters long and 96 meters high, respectively. Its construction began in the 12th century and was finished in the year 1300 in the Romanesque style. It is located in Store Torv, which is one of the most popular squares in the city.
Sidebar: The height and location of the Aarhus Cathedral also reminds me of Hallgrímskirkja in Reykjavik, the capital of Iceland. Due to the smaller size of that city and how tall that church was, you could always orient yourself in the right direction just by looking for the church spire. Same thing here in Aarhus.
The Catholic Church of Our Lady (Vor Frue Kirke), also located nearby Aarhus Cathedral, is like a Russian nesting doll of churches. The church, or its crypt to be more specific, was built over a stone church from the year 1060. It’s worth seeing in the early morning when there aren’t many more souls up and about. The tranquility of it is so calming.
Catholic Church of Our Lady, Aarhus, Denmark (ISO 100, 4.5 mm, f/2.8, 1/40 s)
Strøget is the nearly 1 km long pedestrian street that runs through the city center, full of shopping and food spaces. You will undoubtedly find yourself on this street at some point during your trip. I love these streets for its people watching instead of actually buying anything, unless of course it’s tea or coffee to keep me fueled up for more adventure. For those who love to shop though, go nuts, this is the street to be at.
Mejlborg, Aarhus, Denmark (ISO 100, 4.5 mm, f/2.8, 1/50 s)
Sometimes when I journey through a place, I like to imagine how it would be if I lived there. This means that I usually think about where I would like to live and what that building would look like. Two such places came to mind during my trip: Mejlborg and The Iceberg.
Mejlborg apartment building is classified as possessing Gothic Renaissance style architecture, though to me, it looked much more significant than just a place where people live. But perhaps a reason for its exquisite and grand look is because it was known to be an upper class social hall in the 20th century. Nonetheless, it’s nice to look at.
The Iceberg, Aarhus, Denmark (ISO 100, 4.5 mm, f/2.8, 1/60 s)
The Iceberg is another apartment complex, located on the harbor in Aarhus East. They look as the name suggests, small apartment buildings with irregular angles and strong lines that resemble that of an Iceberg, painted white with hints of blue trim to boot. The way the jagged lines are used, forming peaks and valleys among each building, each resident can get a unique view of the landscape.
I wouldn’t mind in living in such a place, but surely the rent must be quite high given its location. With the drone, I really loved the aerial perspective I could get with photographing the complex (I also did my very best as to not infringe on the privacy of the residents).
For those who know a little bit about Danish culture, the concept of ‘Hygge’ is VERY important. It is a concept of wellbeing and comfortability that is derived from sharing spaces and closeness with other people. This is often exemplified in the form of coffee dates with other Danes. We have this concept in Sweden too, called a ‘fika’.
DavidBreadHead Bakery, Aarhus, Denmark (ISO 100, 24 mm, f/4, 1/200 s)
Therefore, the Danes love their coffee and in Aarhus, which is a large student city, there are no shortage of great spaces. I only found a few but the first bakery/coffee shop I found was Davidbreadhead baking studio. It sits in an unassuming location, below the level of the main city street with enough seating for only four people. The baked goods were excellent both times I went there and the staff (usually just one person) were always warm and welcoming.
Cafeterie 37 is a bit of a larger space, more centrally located in Aarhus. I walked in and saw perhaps 10 people at their own tables, and their own laptops (nearly entirely Apple computers), working away in the library quiet environment. I ordered a tea and sat by the window, doing some people watching and catching some heat from the sun without having to succumb to the wind that made it unusually cold outside.
Last, but certainly not least, is The Dome (Domen). It could also be called the ‘Dome of Visions’ but I first remember experiencing this type of installation building 5 years before in Copenhagen. The Dome is a dome-shaped building, made sustainably out of wooden and plexiglass materials that houses a café. This one in Aarhus also had plots outside where locals could rent a space to plant plants, something we would call ‘an allotment’ in Europe. Since the space around the Dome was still quite nice, it looked a little more barren with dirty covered mounds, but the overall dream is that they mounds will soon also be covered in grass, giving it a sort of Sustainable Oasis vibe.
Aarhus Custom House, Aarhus, Denmark (ISO 100, 24 mm, f/4, 1/1250 s)
Also situated near the harbor is the Aarhus Custom House. Built in 1898, its function really isn’t too interesting (it was used by tax authorities and was an architecture school and hostel at one point as well), today is houses a restaurant and is one of the better works of Danish architect Hack Kampmann.
Marselisborg Slot, Aarhus, Denmark (ISO 100, 4.5 mm, f/2.8, 1/100 s)
If you venture to the south of Aarhus, just 15 minutes by bus, you get to a nice area along the coastline which has a few more prizes in store for travelers:
Marselisborg Castle (Marselisborg Slott) is actually a palace and was also designed by Hack Kampmann. It has served as a royal residence of the Danish Royal Family and since 1967, the summer residence of Queen Margrethe II. The grounds next to it are pristine as one would image with the connotation of the word ‘palace’. The 32 acre park next to it is called Slotshaven and is popular among locals.
Varna Beach is home to The Infinite Bridge (Den Uendelige Bro): a circle shaped bridge, just off of the beach, created by architects Niels Povlsgaard and Johan Gjødes. It can be an endless walk, as the name suggests, good at making you forget how close you are to the 2nd largest city in Denmark. The bridge is usually open from April (week 16) until October (week 44).
Ballehage Beach is most recognized by its single jetty, stretching out far into the water. This urban, public beach is an ideal setting for warm days given its close proximity to the city center, abundance of sunlight, less wind, and setting among the nearby forests.
There you have it! Some great sites to see in Aarhus. As someone who has been to a few Danish cities now, I can honestly say that Aarhus is my favorite. The right balance of nature and cityscape with lots to see. If you have more time in these parts, I suggest seeing other cities in Denmark like Odense and of course, Copenhagen!
