The EPIC Iceland Road Trip: Northern Iceland (Part V)
Dettifoss Waterfall, Northern Iceland (ISO 100, 47 mm, f/22, 0.4 s)
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**This post is the 5th of a 6-post series discussing what to see in this part of Iceland (You can check out the other parts here: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4, Part 5, Part 6. Everything is also summarized in another post here.**
I like to think of the South and North coasts of Iceland to be polar opposites. My experiences in the South have shown me largely pristine places, gorgeous in all weather, polished, clean, and unrivaled beauty. The North, while still beautiful, is more raw, gritty, and the most primordial environment I have ever been to. Make no mistake, northern Iceland is a necessary stop on your road trip through the country. You can find a Google map of the places I will discuss at the end of this post.
If you’re just coming from Eastern Iceland (driving counter clockwise through the ring road), your first stop in the north has to be a trio of waterfalls: Selfoss, Dettifoss, and Hafragilfoss, all fed by the Jökulsá river from the Vatnajökull glacier. Dettifoss is the MOST impressive for a few reasons that I will discuss below. But first thing’s first:
A PROTIP: there are 2 roads that travel along the Jökulsá river, one on the east and one on the west sides of the river. The road on the west side is paved, which makes it popular to drive on. The road on the east side is NOT paved, and is a real pain to drive on at times without a 4x4. You can choose to drive on both roads to get dual views of each waterfall, but if you would rather not do that, then the road on the EAST side of the falls is the best. For example, Dettifoss’s spray covers the entire west side of the falls, making viewing it or taking photos difficult. But on the east side? Hardly any spray and you can literally walk right up to the waterfall.
Check out my drone video below on Iceland’s Waterfalls!
When you drive north on the east side of the river, you will first pass Selfoss (not to be confused with the town of Selfoss). This waterfall is impressive, especially the area around it. I suggest you do not stop at Selfoss but instead make your way to Dettifoss, the most powerful waterfall in Europe (judging by water flow rate).
This waterfall has been the backdrop in the beginning of the film “Prometheus”. The falls are just a 5 minute walk from the car park and as I mentioned before, you can walk right up to it. There are absolutely no bad photos to take of this whole area. Dettifoss is a MUST see on your trip, full stop.
From this area, you can make the 1.4 km hike (one way) towards Selfoss, that you passed on the road. The path is full of gigantic boulders but there are stakes in the ground with yellow markings to guide you through the rock farm. Hafragilfoss is the last waterfall of the three and is located just north of Dettifoss.
If you continue north on this same road (#864), you will eventually reach the canyon of Ábyrgi. This area is a horseshoe-shaped depression and a popular hiking spot. From the car park, you walk along the cliff walls and eventually make your way up to the plateau and walk to a viewing point over the depression itself. Icelandic folklore states that Norse God Odin’s 8-legged steed, named Sleipnir, placed one of his feet in this area, leaving behind the horseshoe shaped imprint into the ground. Nonetheless, the hike is easy and about 1-1.5 hours total.
ALSO, after leaving this area, the town of Húsavík isn’t too much farther away from here, in case you wanted to see where the Netflix movie: Eurovision Song Contest: The Story of Fire Saga was filmed at.
If you like some of my photos that you have come across, just know that I have many prints showcasing a variety of landscapes in Iceland, available for purchase below! (Sold as Posters, Canvas, or in Metal-Frames and Wooden-Frames).
As you make your way back towards the ring road from here you will start to enter a very active geothermal area, the Krafla volcanic region. A major eruption in 1724 let to the creation of the Viti Crater, a massive 300 meter wide lake known for its distinctive blue color, which is derived from the geothermal elements in the area.
Also relatively nearby is the geothermal area of Námafjall, also known as Hverir. The acidity of the geothermal processes that occur in this area contribute to the lack of any real vegetation. There is a turn off from the ring road that takes you directly to this active area. But be forewarned, it will probably be the MOST intense smell of sulfur (rotten eggs) that you have experienced in your entire life. It is indescribable but if you don’t think about it, then you’ll be fine (maybe). You can walk around the area and see the various vents by which these gases escape.
Hvitserkur, Northern Iceland (ISO 100, 35 mm, f/22, 0.5 s)
Just off the ring road is the glorious waterfall of Goðafoss (‘waterfall of the gods’). When in the north of Iceland, this has to be at the top of your list. Depending on what side of the river you park on, you can get different viewpoints of this waterfall. One of the sides allows you to get right down at water level, excellent vantage points for any photographer.
Glaumbaer Church, Iceland (ISO 100, 24 mm, f/8, 1/400 s)
For those of you lucky souls who have managed to rent a 4x4, you can check out two waterfalls that require using F roads to see: Aldeyjarfoss and Hrafnabjargafoss. Unfortunately for me, my camper van wasn’t a 4x4 so I could not take in these amazing places. I have heard wonderful things however and since they aren’t as accessible, I don’t imagine lots of people would be there anyway.
If you’ve got the time, spend a day in Iceland’s 2nd largest city of Akureryi. Though not as big as Reykjavik, the city is quite charming (as noted from the red stop lights that are shaped like hearts). You can camp just outside the city at Hamrar Camping, which has excellent facilities. A great place to also chill at is Lemon, a cafe in the city with great coffee, smoothies, etc. I spent several hours here doing some photo edits and relaxing from all the driving. 100% recommend.
