The EPIC Iceland Road Trip: The Snaefellsnes Peninsula (Part VI)
Kirkjufell and Kirkjufellsfoss, Snaefellsnes, Iceland (ISO 100, 16 mm, f/22, 1.3 s)
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**This post is the 6th of a 6-post series discussing what to see in this part of Iceland (You can check out the other parts here: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4, Part 5, Part 6. Everything is also summarized in another post here.**
The Snaefellsnes Peninsula, located on the western part of Iceland, just north of Reykjavik, is a must see. It’s a perfect microcosm of the entire country, it has churches, waterfalls, lighthouses, caves, cliffs, and gorges. It can also be seen entirely in one (long) day. I will discuss all the great places to see as if you’re coming from the North of Iceland. This trip can easily, and is often done, from Reykjavik as well, so just flip the order of the places I have listed. You can find a Google map of the places I will discuss at the end of this post.
From Kolugljúfur canyon in the north, head southwest and the first stop you’ll get to is the small town of Súgandisey, which is located on an island made of basalt. You’'ll notice it by its small, red lighthouse on the top. You can park and hike up to the top of the hill to get great aerial views of the city and harbor below.
Continuing to the west, you’ll eventually reach one of the most cherished places in all of Iceland, which is Kirkjufell (meaning ‘Church Mountain’) and Kirkjufellsfoss (a waterfall), located just outside the town of Grundarfjörður. This mountain is iconic (classified as a ‘Sukkertoppen’ or Sugar Top) and you can find photos of it everywhere at any time (summer, winter, northern lights, etc). There is a parking area off the main road that guides you to the falls where you’ll most likely find a band of tripods from amateur to pro photographers, trying to capture the mountain in all its glory.
Luckily for me, the weather cooperated and I was able to get about 500 photos, which I then used to compose a short time lapse film of the sunset. I love how the warm colors light up the side of the Kirkjufell before the cooler colors start to fade in. Due to its convenient location, you can access this area pretty much at all times of the year.
Svöðufoss Waterfall, Snaefellsnes, Iceland (ISO 1180, 4.5 mm, f/2.8, 1/3 s)
It is also worth parking in the small town of Grundarfjörður and taking a small walk. Or better yet, there is a campsite nearby as well that will give you a good starting point for the rest of your Snaefellsnes tour.
The Svöðufoss waterfall may not have its own mountain, but it nonetheless is wonderful to photograph. I believe in recent years, you were able to get up close to it, however now there only seems to be a viewing point from afar. I’m assuming this because the area is a popular bird nesting area and there are many sheep that roam the area as well. So perhaps this is an effort to minimize human intervention. If you can time it right, sometimes the natural light during golden hour will shine directly on the falls for great effect.
I must say, I had a hell of a time flying my drone around Ingjaldshólskirkja, this incredible picturesque church in the area. There is one road leading up to it and it has a cemetery in the back. The church was built in 1903, entirely out of concrete. The name essentially translated to ‘the church at Ingjaldshóll’, no surprise there. I really enjoyed the red colored roof against the earthy tones of the landscape and I was even lucky enough to get a few lenticular clouds in the distance (pancake-shaped clouds that form near mountain tops when air flow is forced upwards).
Most of the route up until this point has been paved roads however these next two places require a bit of time and patience as you must take a gravel road a few kilometers to reach them. The Öndverðarnes Lighthouse and Svörtuloft Lighthouse are easily recognizable on the rocky coastal landscape by their bright and vivid orange colors (my personal favorite being the latter).
Öndverðarnes used to be home to an old fishing station, with lava rock on one side and the Atlantic on the other. It was a crucial site to guide ships into the area. Park by the lighthouse and take the wooden path towards the beach and you’ll see the remnants of an old well and a ton of nesting birds (during the summer). This is the best place for a picnic.
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Svörtuloft Lighthouse, Snaefellsnes, Iceland (ISO 1000, 28 mm, f/4, 1/3200 s)
The lighthouse at Svörtuloft (meaning ‘Black ceiling’ named from the cliffs being formed by pitch black lava) is a very busy nesting area for birds and the occasional puffin in the summer (we saw none unfortunately). It’s exterior, aside from the orange facade, reminds me of a castle in some ways. There are picnic tables here too that you can take advantage of. Use caution when looking over the cliffs as the ground has been known to crumble near the edges.
Once home to a thriving fishing village, Djúpalónssandur beach is wide open bay area with black sand and high cliffs. The area is quite barren itself but offers unfettered access to water and is nice for a photo or two. Scattered on the beach are the remains of a fishing trawler that ran aground in 1948.
Just south of here is the Malariff Lighthouse. Though not the distinctly bright orange color as others on the peninsula, this lighthouse lies in what used to be an old farm. Venture further to the water and you’ll find yourself looking at the turquoise blue water, washing up against the black rocks on the shoreline. It is the perfect place to chill and relax after a long day of driving. I imagine even in bad weather, this place would look quite dramatic, leading to some really great photographic shots.
Londrangar, Snaefellsnes, Iceland (ISO 100, 24 mm, f/8, 1/320 s)
The Lóndrangar basalt cliffs are home to many bird species. The two tall cliffs in the distance comprise what locals call the ‘rocky castle’, which are now remnants of what used to be a volcanic crater. The path here from the car park is quite short and there are multiple viewing platforms along the cliff side.
Gatklettur, Snaefellsnes, Iceland (ISO 100, 24 mm, f/22, 2 s)
Gatklettur (‘Hellnar Arch’) is another stunning cliff formation, teaming with birds. You can recognize it by its distinctive archway. We got here during midday but I feel as though this place is best seen during sunrise/sunset, with a slow exposure of the ocean waves coming in. The surrounding area is very tranquil and good for longer walks.
Waterfall in the Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge, Snaefellsnes, Iceland (ISO 400, 24 mm, f/8, 0.8 s)
A bit further east on the south side of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula is the Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge (translating to ‘red cloak rift’, a canyon that boasts a small waterfall in its crevices. Once you hike upwards along the path, you will see a stream that blankets the floor, so you must traverse it by stepping on protruding rocks. It’s not too difficult with boots, just use caution.
Once you get further in the canyon, you can make your way through the cracks until no person can reasonably go further. It’s a very serene place, especially when you have it to yourself. The folklore goes that the half giant Bárðar, who looked over the peninsula, banished local boys into the gorge after believing they had sent one of his daughters to Greenland on a glacier. (She apparently found love there, so the 14th century story goes).
